ONESIXTYNOTEPAD: WOMENSWEAR

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PRADA’S FIRST SHOW IN BEIJING, CHINA.

Prada seems to always have its fingers on the pulse of the next ‘big’ thing. It is casting no doubts on China’s imminent cultural influence it seems, by choosing to show for the first time outside of Italy. A-list Chinese celebrities – the likes of Gong Li, Maggie Cheung, Cecilia Cheung and Oscar-winning director, Tim Yip – were all decked head to toe in the latest threads from the house.

Prada presented its Spring/Summer 2011 collection for both its men’s and women’s line which was staged at the Central Academy of Fine Arts Museum, Beijing. The show comprised 50 looks in total, 23 of which are new and exclusive to the collection. (View new designs from the collection here) These never-before-shown looks are only made available in the China and Hong Kong stores in the day following the event. It is evident that this was not merely a restaging of the show in Milan but an earnest gesture to leave an impression in China.

The venerable Italian Fashion house has always proven to be two steps ahead of everyone else so it comes as no surprise that the label has already established itself as the preferred luxury brand for consumers in what is becoming the world’s largest market for luxury goods.

We are deeply honored to be the first to break this Prada exclusive to our local readers.

Nabil.

ETRO SPRING/SUMMER 2011, BACKSTAGE.

Aside from unremittingly stalking my all time favorite, Sasha Pivovarova all over the streets of Milano, I’ve taken the interest to study the rest of the other models thoroughly over the years. (Possibly well enough to write a models’ glossary by now!) So when Etro extended their invitation to pre-show backstage, it was truly a ‘kid in the candy store’ moment for me.

Judging from how vacant the dressing area was, it was apparent that we were one of the first press (and only press from Asia, I believe) to do a walkthrough and interview Veronica Etro before the show. Juicy bits: When asked about her take on blogging as the ‘new media’, she simply said that she is not affected by the phenomenon and don’t find the need to read any. A rather gripping statement, don’t you think?

It was the 70's all over again with a kaleidoscopic mix of ethnic prints and patterns and that statement smoking purple eye that was 'punched' in right into the sockets but it was the accessories and styling that truly reels me in—which brings us to the next portion of our massive experience; the makeup counter and having really close proximity to the bevy of models!

Oh boy, this definitely tops any backstage at Victoria’s Secret fantasy I’ve had since the longest time. My figment of imagination was coming to life and I am not hallucinating! Everything ran like clockwork there; the clamoring from the makeup team, swarm of photographers and models everywhere is entirely insane. I’ll live to tell this story that I’ve spent my best five minutes chatting up ‘The Kloss’. Karlie was nothing but amiable in person that I quickly diminished the thought about her standout runway walk which I find quite unsettling.

I was shy to approach any others (Abbey Lee and Freja are way too intriguing and intimidating!), but I’m content at being a voyeur, to say the very least, juggling with the perpetual model spasms I encountered in between. In all, fetching home our very own paisley printed couch pillows from the show was the icing on the cake. Rest assured that should I need to relive back those moments once more, I’ll simply lie my head and dream a little Etro dream.

Upon many readers request for this highly exclusive backstage experience, this marks our final installation of our Milan Fashion Week coverage. Till Paris next time, ciao!

Ridhwan.

WORST OF S/S 2011.

It was tough picking the ones I dislike because I thought everything was good and some were beyond great this season. I’ve settled for two brands; one is simply atrocious and another failed to capture Gianni Versace’s repertoire of the 1980s. (And i shall leave Zac Posen alone because i fell in love with him after watching The Hills. PS: He made it to the list last season.)

Balmain S/S 11 Paris
We don’t need a crystal ball to predict who will top the charts of our ‘worst of’ list for Balmain will always have a place in the hearts of Bloggers who lacks taste. Each season, the process of designing a Balmain collection is a breeze; Christophe Decarnin adopts twenty cats from the animal shelter, cage them in a room and let them rip the hell out of last season’s jeans. The result is a replica of last season’s collection with bigger holes and more bleach stains.

While I do like the play of metal hardware, this collection could easily fit into GUESS by Marciano window display (and has Ke$ha's name written all over)—and that’s not a good thing.

Versus S/S 11 Milan
This would probably be the only time you see any facial expression on Donatella Versace, she’s literally begging for Botox to hide the embarrassment on her face during the finale!

Versus as we all know is the ‘younger’ line for Versace, designed by Christopher kane. I feel that Christopher Kane failed tremendously and he couldn’t capture the essence of a younger Versace. Instead he infuses his namesake label to this collection. It’s a pity because I love the designs, the presentation and accessories but I dislike the fact that it doesn’t look like Versace’s junior line.Had this been Miu Miu, this would be a whole different story altogether.

Dinie.

COUTURE FALL 2010.11 HIGHLIGHTS.

Chanel Haute Couture F/W 10.11 Paris

I heard Karl tends to lose things—along with his car keys, I think he misplaced his sanity too—come on, we only care about the giant Styrofoam lion or the huge imported iceberg more than anything else! There’s so much hate for the Chanel Couture this season. I guess us minions have to walk by a Chanel Boutique in order to appreciate those pieces.

Givenchy Haute Couture F/W 10.11 Paris

You know it’s a hit when the new owner’s wife of Harrods bought the entire Givenchy Haute Couture collection. Tisci tops his collection once again with ten spectacular looks. Tisci showed modern couture; wearable, intricate and beyond exceptional. Alongside with seasoned models, former assistant to Tisci modeled for couture collection this season. The house of Givency gets props for the progressive approach for casting a transgender.

Christian Dior Haute Couture F/W 10.11 Paris

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again— we’ll never live to see another amazing collection like we did in 2005. I didn’t like the literal translation of flowers on a human form. Some of the pieces were adorable sans makeup but it feels like déjà vu. Don’t the sight of the finale gown makes you want to puke tulle?

Images Source: Daylife, The Fashion Spot.

Dinie.

PAULINE.NING BY PAULINE LIM.

Did you know that her name was Pauline Lim and not Pauline Ning? Pauline and I met on the set of a shoot; her work was highlighted along with five other up-and-coming talents for style: magazine’s ‘Brand New Heavies’. A graduate of LASALLE College of the Arts, she mastered in textile and designs.

Since our meeting, we’ve fallen for her clothes (unfortunately for us, we won’t be wearing dresses anytime soon) and have been following her career. She ventured into designing bags as well and definitely one of our favorite young designers; she’s an exceptional piece of talent.

Her works involves a lot of fabrication techniques unlike any that we’ve seen in the local scene. She combines contradicting elements such as soft and rigid which creates a structured and refined looks to her collection. The play of fabrics, textures and color to the individual garment is wondrous. It’s really nothing gimmicky of reinventing an old form; it’s focused on quality, exploring fresh and innovative designs. You simply have to feel it to believe it.

These unique pieces are stock in Parco next NEXT located within Parco Marina Bay store. Do drop by to check out the collection, touch it and you too will fall for her clothes. I think she did her idol Sandra Backlund proud!

Images By Ridhwan Sesapar.

Dinie.

BECOMING JOAN BY ANG ZHI HUI.

The designer and I palled when we both attended school together some three, four years ago, we met at a subway platform. It is always interesting to befriend a designer and to see their concept or aesthetic ‘evolve’ in such a short period of time. For Zhi Hui, she is no different. She wasn’t born with a silver spoon in mouth, making her graduation journey admirable.

‘Becoming Joan’ was the choice of theme, exploring Saint Joan of Arc’s timeline from childhood to warrior-days till death. The 13-piece collection was the result of exploring leading elements from the Saint’s history; armor, fire and ropes. (click here for runway looks)

Amour-like outers were piped to form a definite structure and ropes designs were implemented to macramé dresses. As for the fire element, it needed a lot of strenuous handwork that involves time-consuming process of dry felting. Dry felting is a tedious fabrication technique of agitating wool manually into the silk chiffon so as to achieve the desired fire effect. This represents the moment Saint Joan of Arc was burn at stake.

Apart from the clothing, the chained heels are an original design, especially custom made overseas. The idea was to make the accessories sellable while complimenting the collection.

It was fun catching up with an old friend and also, a joy to see one’s dream come true.

Images By Ridhwan Sesapar.

Dinie.

AUDI FASHION FESTIVAL 2010: ALLDRESSEDUP.

It was unfortunate that I was seated beside ‘the innocent blogger that everyone love to hate’ but you didn’t think I was going to did you? She was so giving me the evil stare! I was moved to second row on the opposite side, thanks to the helpful PRs of Mercury!

Now, moving on to the collection.

The one-glove styling, similar drapes, chunky necklace, bronze and fur stole—How could one not make a reference to Lavin, it was pretty obvious but not as great of course. I’m unfamiliar with the brand history but I was right, it was design by a team of designers. The direction of the clothes was all over the place, it lacks cohesiveness. Don’t get me started on the styling and shoes, I will go on forever.

I was expecting so much more, something better than the previous one since it was by a team of young designers. They should have better and innovative ideas; think Guillaume Henry revives Carven, take it to that direction.

Images By Ridhwan Sesapar.
More Images on ONESIXTYNOTEPAD Facebook Fanpage.

Dinie

WORST OF F/W 2010.11

I thought why write about a collection I love (that would be Lanvin, Dries, Balenciaga etc) when there’s more to hate. Plus, we all know I’m not a miss positive Patty to begin with. Ugly is fine, but safe is a ‘no-no’, here’s my top three for worst of Fall 2010.
At number three, Christopher Decarnin for Balmain. When Christopher Decarnin first designed for Balmain, (I think it was fall 2006) it was undistinguished. It was in Fall 2007 that he was the pioneer of the whole disco, rock-chick, bold shoulders and sequins phenomenon that got everyone jumping on the bandwagon. By Spring 2009 we were all bored of Balmain—it was the same thing at ridiculously high prices. This season, we’re still stuck in the same situation with added pantsuit in the collection. Pantsuit and tie-collar blouse ala Givenchy, where did that come from? I still don’t get what the hype is about when it comes to Balmain, maybe it’s the celebrity influences and images at Jak & Jil that got everyone worship Balmain. As for me, this collection is not hideous and i like it but, it is definitely getting old.

Coming in second is Zac posen for his namesake label. You see, once upon Fall 2007, I was madly in love with that collection. There were many wearable pieces and it was New York. I disagree with some of the fabrics used but, the gown that Gwyneth Paltrow wore at the Oscar was perfect and I love that pieces. And then somehow, he evolved into the daddy of all prom tackiness, everything was pretty, pretty and it gets prettier every season. With many great talents now showing in New York and if compared to the rest, Zac Posen’s collection was the weakest.

Emanuel Ungaro by Estrella Archs. Lilo was not involved but seriously? Forever 21 has got more innovation than this collection. Never liked Emanuel Ungaro since Peter Dundas. It could have been worst!

Dinie.