HAUTE COUTURE S/S 11 HIGHLIGHTS.

The dry spell for Haute Couture may very well just be over. For once in a long time, it has finally found a promise to remain relevant in this day and age of fast-fashion.

No appliqués or embroidery rained on Armani Privé this spring, but instead it shocked us with a forward-looking collection that is deliciously psychedelic with its electric colours and high tech fabrics, a drift from the usual Haute Couture palette. With the mirror effect on the organza and the out-of-this-world Philip Treacy head gears, the Armani girls are a God-sent breath of fresh air delivered straight from the 11th planet. For a risk that could have gone sour, dismissed as being contrived, this risk is supported with the no nonsense craftsmanship expected of Haute Couture. The collection wasn’t busying itself to look futuristic. It just simply was. Moreover, it still maintains the essence of Armani through the recognizable silhouettes unlike the tragedy that was Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2010.



On the other side, Givenchy pulled off a ballsy move casting only Asian models for its show. It is also interesting that the house decided to be inspired by Japanese culture and Japanese art - hence, the Samurai hats and the compulsive crane motif embroidery. What’s more brow-raising is that the inspiration comes not from traditional Japan but from the modern day land of Takashi Murakami, Kazuo Ohno’s Butoh dance form and Hello Kitty. Whether Givenchy is inspiring a new ‘Asian cult’ with this collection or merely riding on the wave of the current pulse in fashion, it is certainly doing something right. More importantly, it is paving the way for Haute Couture by drawing inspiration from more contemporary sources.





Last on the list of favourites for this season is Christian Dior. Inspired by Réne Gruau illustrations, the collection showed a lot of variety. And above, all the silhouettes also seem younger and fresher from the usual cuts that can only be imagined on trophy wives of super rich oil moguls. The collection is aspirational without being stuffy. And simply, it’s fun.

What is heartening to see is that Haute Couture may be finding its way back to its helm as the pinnacle of fashion by being the source of inspiration not just through its unparalleled craftsmanship but through its exploration of higher concepts that ready-to-wear cannot afford to. Boasting thousands of man-hours and counting the appliqués on a dress is not going to be enough to preserve this venerable art form. On the contrary, being at the forefront of fabric technology and standing at the edge of globalized culture like Armani and Givenchy respectively may just be Haute’s Couture ticket to saving itself from sinking to the depths of obscurity.

Nabil.

Read more...

MILAN MENS F/W 11.12 HIGHLIGHTS.

When ‘evaluating’ show highlights, I’ll pick the overall best from each city. The looks need not be jaw-dropping but show quality and staging of the show is crucial. A noteworthy show will sell even more than those of great designs—ask the local brand-whore, they should know. (Brand-whore: someone who ‘buy brands’ under the belief that it brings prestige to their otherwise lack of taste, regardless of quality or value. Thank you, urban dictionary.)

First up; Burberry Prorsum by Chief Creative Officer, Christopher Bailey. Upon seeing the new Burberry collection, I would like to think that Bailey was thinking of me when editing the looks. It is everything that I would wear; oversized sculptural outerwear, bonded wool and slim leg trousers— what more can I ask for?

True, some pieces were tacky and looked like the interior of a Texas trucker’s truck but I’m not complaining. I have to say, if not for the teal, tangerine and the rain at the end, the show might just be boring. When you mix model and wet, it is always a good thing.







Muiccia build a two-storied ‘house’ for guest at the fall-winter show with flooring coated with a prep of linseed oil and powdered cork. It should be an amazing experience if you’re at the show but for us who have to rely on the Internet, it’s a little underwhelming.

Following last season’s wonderful compilation, no wonder most of us were disappointed. I see Prada as the tastemakers for the lesser-known brands and as the ‘dictator’ of next season’s trends. Glitter tops are no longer groundbreaking in the menswear scene but the play of proportion is current. Sad to say, the current menswear collection fell short. And it looks like the women’s collection is forecast to be as dull as dishwater.







Lastly, Monclear Gamme Bleu (still have no idea what that means) by Thom Browne. Every season is like a guessing game—what will Thom Browne do next? The latest show doesn’t sit well with me. I like how it was presented but poor beagles was suffering and models were pissed. It really doesn’t matter how the clothes were because no one was looking at it anyways. There are better ways to stage a spectacular show; to me five horses and 20 beagles is not one of them.

Dinie.

Read more...

GUCCI, SPRING 2011 MENS.

Usually the staple garment from Gucci would be the cropped leather jacket that we all know and adore but for SS’11 the double-breasted mercerized suit is the clear winner. We have to credit Frida Giannini for doing away with the stuffy-ness of this variety of suits and for styling it in a manner that is easy and casual. Maybe now we can consider ways to incorporate it into our wardrobes without it feeling out of place or overly dapper for our daily whereabouts. This certainly makes the double-breasted suit a bubbling trend for this summer.

That said, the collection as a whole is very characteristic of Gucci’s jet-setting vibe but I’m afraid that might just be its shortfall, the fact that there is nothing new to jolt us off our seats. The summer shorts, silk shirts and safari scarves – we have seen these before. Unlike the SS11 collection for women’s wear, which is clearly provoking, this one is subdued. But perhaps it then makes sense that the men’s collection complements the women’s line as contrasts.

Perhaps the collection may not be Frida Giannini’s freshest or most modern to date but this offering is still legitimately Gucci indeed. Her fabric choices are luxe as always and the jet setter vibe is still very much at the core of her aesthetics. It is Gucci as we know it.

Images by Gucci.

Nabil.

Read more...

WORST OF S/S 2011.

It was tough picking the ones I dislike because I thought everything was good and some were beyond great this season. I’ve settled for two brands; one is simply atrocious and another failed to capture Gianni Versace’s repertoire of the 1980s. (And i shall leave Zac Posen alone because i fell in love with him after watching The Hills. PS: He made it to the list last season.)

Balmain S/S 11 Paris
We don’t need a crystal ball to predict who will top the charts of our ‘worst of’ list for Balmain will always have a place in the hearts of Bloggers who lacks taste. Each season, the process of designing a Balmain collection is a breeze; Christophe Decarnin adopts twenty cats from the animal shelter, cage them in a room and let them rip the hell out of last season’s jeans. The result is a replica of last season’s collection with bigger holes and more bleach stains.

While I do like the play of metal hardware, this collection could easily fit into GUESS by Marciano window display (and has Ke$ha's name written all over)—and that’s not a good thing.






Versus S/S 11 Milan
This would probably be the only time you see any facial expression on Donatella Versace, she’s literally begging for Botox to hide the embarrassment on her face during the finale!

Versus as we all know is the ‘younger’ line for Versace, designed by Christopher kane. I feel that Christopher Kane failed tremendously and he couldn’t capture the essence of a younger Versace. Instead he infuses his namesake label to this collection. It’s a pity because I love the designs, the presentation and accessories but I dislike the fact that it doesn’t look like Versace’s junior line.Had this been Miu Miu, this would be a whole different story altogether.

Dinie.

Read more...

ACCESSORIES, MENS S/S 2010 HIGHLIGHTS.

Louis Vuitton Mens S/S11 Paris.

For most, the go-to brand when purchasing a designer bag or accessories would be Louis Vuitton. With Marc Jacobs reinventing the classics, the conventional monogram never gets old. This spring, in line with the ‘active-wear’ trend, the house of Vuitton sent droves of ‘sporty’ bags down the runway. For the brand-whores, it might be a little disappointing— monograms were lightly imprinted; the Damier pieces were current and the leather goods are elegant. Simply put, there’s something for everyone, the sartorial man or the eccentric.





Burberry Mens S/S11 Milan

Oh Burberry, every young lad’s fashion fantasy. I must say, it’s a little too late for the rockability chic but damn, those pieces are stunning! I had the privilege of previewing some of the pieces beforehand and it wasn’t as impressive as on the runway. I like the fact that most of the bags are not your average in-your-face accessories and very understated. When previewing the lookbook, I was immediately drawn to those sandals— but again, I think Burberry don’t cater for the masses, only the hip and young.






Lanvin Mens S/S11 Paris.

Expect ridiculous prices for Lucas Ossendrijver’s innovative designs. The accessories are tribal-inspired and sporty; again, a key trend in menswear fashion since last fall. The shoes, bags and accessories are second to none—It’s really nothing revolutionary, the brand is known for it’s radical approach but this season was simply amazing. So much so that it put some womenswear collection to shame.

I’ve always wanted a Lanvin’s footwear but it will cost me about six months worth of my lunch money. Let’s hope that when I can afford these, Alber’s apprentice would still be design for Lanvin Homme.

Dinie.

Read more...